fivemack (fivemack) wrote,


I didn't organise my trip to Copenhagen very well. Sunday was rainy, and I managed to walk along a path which missed all the museums and end up fairly glum; Monday was sunny, and all the museums were shut, so I walked around the city again and took a very nice boat trip around the harbour, paid for by a fifty-kroner note I'd seen floating in the harbour and waited for the wash of the incoming boat to bring it close enough to shore to grab. Tuesday was rainy and by then I knew where the museums were, but I didn't know the opening times so managed to get to the Glyptotek, intended grand finale to the trip, five minutes after it shut.

It's a pleasant enough city, at the edge of the sea so there are lots of quays to wander along and lots of harbours filled with sailing ships with bars along both sides. I went to 'Den Store Ravn' ('the black raven'), one of its fancier restaurants, on Monday; this produced a marvellous crab soup (though I suspect some of the marvel came from copious cream and brandy), a collection of superb raspberry puddings, and nothing very exciting for the middle three courses.

The BodyWorks exhibition of preserved dissected bodies has clearly split into pieces, since the version running in Copenhagen has running dates overlapping with the version that I didn't see in Vienna three weeks back. It was an interesting experience, I think it probably was worth the twenty pounds and that I should pick up a large glossy anatomy textbook the next time Galloway and Porter have them going cheap, but I am not very squeamish and it came near my threshold of being disturbing.

There's also a good exhibit of Denmark before written history, careful about dividing the Stone Age into its many periods and talking about how much trade there was to get bronze from as far south as Crete during the Bronze Age, in the National Museum - you get the impression there was something of a dark age from about 1100BC to about the rise of Rome, if only because trade with the South stopped.

A five-hour train ride to Stockholm on Tuesday evening about exhausted my tolerance for long train rides on which I can't sleep; Scandinavia doesn't have Fast Trains by French or Spanish standards yet, the journey is only 650km, and the North European Plain is, well, rather plain to watch out of the window for five hours.
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