fivemack (fivemack) wrote,
fivemack
fivemack

Delights of Zagreb

I have mostly heard Zagreb described unkindly, and I don't think it deserves that at all. It looks like a slightly more experimental version of Vienna, and I suspect that's mostly by direct decree of Franz Josef I: there is Secession-style everywhere, including the truly spectacular reading-room of the National Archives. This is decorated with brass plaques depicting babies doing things with folios that would horrify any parent or librarian; falling in neither category, I thought they were cute.

The fish plate pictured previously turned out to be poisonous and laid me out for twelve hours starting at 11pm Saturday; then I took the bus up to Zagreb. This starts off in spectacular limestone hills, with the sort of stunt autobahn construction in which the tunnels attach directly to the viaducts; having a motorway switchback up a mountain was the best bit. It then turns into rolling hills full of farmhouses in a sort of Alpine-meadows way: as if the tunnel led from very-east Italy to very-south Bavaria.

I made it to the EU welcome ceremony on Sunday night: short speeches from EU highest-officials and the Croat president, lots of folk-dancing, a particularly ostentatious cello duet, and at the end fireworks (invisible from the square) and the Ode to Joy belted out by two sopranos and a bass choir.

Today I've been museum-hopping, since the EU accession was celebrated by opening museums on Monday (unprecedented) and making admission free. Croatia's been a great place to live and trade for long enough that the Archaeological Museum was excellent, and the Pavilion containing a museum of the restoration of the Pavilion and an exhibition of noted exhibitions that had taken place in the Pavilion could not easily have been more self-referential. The Design Museum was good fun; but in three museums I don't think I saw a memorable Croat painting.

(there will be pictures later, but I have misplaced the blivet for getting them directly from camera to iPad)

Subscribe
  • Post a new comment

    Error

    default userpic

    Your IP address will be recorded 

    When you submit the form an invisible reCAPTCHA check will be performed.
    You must follow the Privacy Policy and Google Terms of use.
  • 1 comment